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ORIGINAL POSTER - DODGEBOY77

How-To: SRT Front Spoiler Swap
I changed my R/T's front spoiler for an SRT unit today. A little background:

The SRT spoiler is different from the R/T's because it has two vents in it. The vents direct air to the front brakes by way of a duct arrangement that involves the SRT front belly pan and some separate duct pieces. List price on the spoiler itself is around $72 from Dodge but it can be found cheaper. The other parts drive the price up quite a bit.

The SRT spoiler also is ½" deeper than the R/T's (In other words, it sticks forward ½" more). It also has a blunt front edge where the R/T's spoiler has a tapered front edge.

For now I just did a spoiler swap. I figured that would direct more air up into the bottom of the CAI by way of that left duct.

Before raising the car on ramps, I took off the fasteners in front of the tires. Do this first because it's easier to work in this spot when you can turn the wheels inward to make room. If I recall, there are two plastic rivets that need to be removed and one reusable push-pin fastener per side. After those are off you can take out the Phillips head screw that is hidden by all that stuff (It goes into the spoiler itself). You are actually dealing with a bunch of parts in this area: the spoiler, the belly pan, the front fascia, the wheel well and the front fender flare (or whatever the heck that's called).

Now it's time to get under the car. Take off the front belly pan. This requires that you take off two 10mm bolts that are the ones you have to remove to do an oil change when you are dropping the rear belly pan because these bolts go where the two belly pans overlap. Then remove eight sheet metal screws (7mm heads - 9/32" if you want to be a traditionalist) along the lower edge of the spoiler. After that remove the plastic push-pins that secure the front belly pan (I think there are nine of them, more or less). Now you can drop the front belly pan.

Next, from under the car, use a 7mm socket to remove the upper spoiler screws (they point down) from the front fascia. I forget how many of these there are but I think it's seven. Some of them may require cussing. Once they are removed you can get the spoiler off. This will require a fair amount of wiggling as it interlocks with the fascia and the reinforcing block that's behind the spoiler. Be careful that you don't scratch the paint. The reinforcing block will stay on the car as the radiator baffles are attached to it.

Now if you compare your new SRT spoiler to the R/T one, you find that not a single one of the lower edge screw holes are in the same place (the uppers are okay). See the picture.

This isn't a big deal. Carefully align your front belly pan up with the new spoiler and use a thin center punch (or something similar like a nail) and punch through the holes in the belly pan's speed nuts to mark where the new holes will be in the spoiler. I then drilled small pilot holes and followed up with about a 5/16 bit. It's a good idea to back up the plastic with a piece of wood when drilling. The lower spoiler screws have big washers on them so the holes can be over-sized.

Now it's time to reassemble everything. Begin by aligning the spoiler (remember that it interlocks with the fascia), then start the upper screws. Some of those screws just go through speed nuts on tabs and don't actually go through the spoiler. Don't tighten all of them until they are all started. Remember the Phillips head screws in the top outer corners.

After that, install your front belly pan using it's reusable push-pins. Then put the lower spoiler/belly pan screws in through the new holes that you drilled. Then install the two, 10mm belly pan bolts. Last, install new plastic rivets in front of the wheels (You can use the older style serrated push pins here).

That should do it! Now stand back and admire your good work. It's a lot of little fasteners but it's not too hard a job - just time consuming. It took me a couple hours but I was taking my time. I also removed the baffle that separates the left lower grille opening from the area below the CAI's air inlet while I was down there (plastic rivets). The LX guys claim this helps get more cool air into the intake.

It would be possible to run duct work from the new spoiler's ducts directly into the bottom of the CAI. Maybe someday.

I hope this helps anyone who wants to tackle this project!

Bill
 

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Damn, I'm going to have to change my front spoiler on my SRT8 cause it was damaged. I wish you lived close then I could have you help me. I'm just terrible at this kind of stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
just figure on taking some time - hardest part is the ^&^%#*OR^UF little bolts on the inside of top spoiler lip - like a 1/4 turn at a time. HIGHLY recommend you find a 7mm ratcheting box end
 
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